On the shores of the Moroccan Atlantic, just a short distance from National Road No. 1 linking Kenitra and Larache, lies the town of Moulay Bousselham, a serene natural jewel where the sea embraces spirituality, welcoming visitors in search of pure nature and heartfelt hospitality.
In this place, at the meeting point of the Atlantic Ocean and the Merja Zerga lagoon (the blue lagoon), the small town unfolds like a unique painting, its beauty matched only by its stillness, its people’s warmth rivaled only by the diversity of migratory birds that make its skies their resting place.
In Moulay Bousselham, a commune belonging to the Rabat-Salé-Kenitra region with a population of 32,629 according to the 2024 census, the soundtrack is made up of waves breaking on golden sands, the chirping of birds announcing their migration season, and the mingling scents of roasted peanuts, fresh strawberries, and mint tea. Small in size, the town nevertheless occupies an outsized place in Morocco’s touristic and ecological memory.
Moulay Bousselham: The Story of a Name and a Place
The origins of Moulay Bousselham and his full name are subjects of debate, his figure caught somewhere between history and legend. Some sources identify him as Abu Saïd Othman al-Masri, known as “Abu Selham,” while others point to Ahmed Ibn Abdallah Ibn Suleiman al-Idrissi, giving him noble Idrissid lineage. This divergence has left his image oscillating between that of a historical figure and that of a Sufi saint, revered like Moulay Abdessalam ben Mchich.
According to one account, his journey to Morocco began in the 10th century, when his family left Egypt for Tunisia after performing the pilgrimage to Mecca. Immersed in the Sufi milieu there, he witnessed the rise of spiritual orders such as the Shadhiliyya and the Badawiyya. Yet conflicts with Egypt’s rulers drove him to seek refuge in the land of his ancestors, linked to the Gharb tribes who had long settled the region.
A second narrative, based on a written source, ties his story to an anonymous manuscript discovered by French researcher Georges Salmon in the city of Ksar El Kebir about a century ago. The manuscript recounts that Moulay Bousselham first reached the vicinity of the ancient city of Lixus near Larache, where he encountered the ascetic Abderrahman al-Azraq. Recognizing his spiritual stature, al-Azraq described him as “the wronged man of Egypt’s rulers,” a seeker of serenity and solitude.
From that meeting, Moulay Bousselham chose a life of asceticism and meditation, dwelling on the ocean’s edge and in the forest’s embrace. Over time, folk tales and legends wove around him, cementing his status as a spiritual symbol and bequeathing his name to the area, a legacy that endures to this day.
During the French and Spanish protectorates, the Merja Zerga lagoon gained special significance as a strategic hub for monitoring the Atlantic coastline, while colonial authorities used it as a fishing and marketing station.
Later, owing to its ecological richness, the lagoon was classified in 1980 among the first four Moroccan sites under the Ramsar Convention on wetlands of international importance. Since then, Moulay Bousselham has stood on the international map as a protected sanctuary for migratory birds on their route toward sub-Saharan Africa.
The Road to Moulay Bousselham: A Short Yet Delightful Journey
Getting to Moulay Bousselham is relatively easy compared to other destinations. If you are coming from Rabat or Kenitra, you simply need to take the A5 highway northbound, covering about 100 kilometers from Kenitra or 134 kilometers from Rabat, a trip of no more than an hour and a half by car. Travelers from Larache, on the other hand, only need to drive 44 kilometers along the A5 highway, which takes less than 40 minutes.
You can also reach the town by train, stopping at Kenitra or Larache stations, and then taking a shared taxi directly to Moulay Bousselham. For air travel, the nearest airports are Tangier Ibn Battuta International Airport, located 123 kilometers to the north, or Rabat-Salé Airport, around 140 kilometers to the south.
There are also buses linking major cities to Moulay Bousselham, though you may need to change buses in towns such as Souk El Arbaa El Gharb or Kenitra.
This accessibility has made Moulay Bousselham a favorite destination for short family getaways and domestic tourism, especially during weekends and in the summer season.
The Merja Zerga Lagoon: The Beating Heart of Moulay Bousselham’s Ecosystem
It is impossible to speak about Moulay Bousselham without pausing at length on the Merja Zerga Lagoon, which stretches over more than 7,000 hectares and stands as one of Morocco’s richest natural reserves.
This lagoon is more than just a body of water, it is a fully integrated ecosystem where freshwater flowing from Oued Drader and the Nador Canal meets the salty waters of the Atlantic Ocean, creating a wetland environment ideal for migratory birds and aquatic plants.
Observation platforms are scattered along the lagoon’s shores, used by researchers and eco-tourism enthusiasts alike. Here, you can witness flocks of pink flamingos lined up in graceful formations, cormorants diving for fish, or wild ducks pausing to rest before resuming their long journey southward.
Thanks to this natural wealth, Moulay Bousselham has become a preferred stop for scientists and students researching environmental and biodiversity studies.
Beaches: Golden Sands and the Calm of the Atlantic
Beyond the lagoon, Moulay Bousselham opens its arms to a long Atlantic beach, known for its golden sands and clear waters, attracting an increasing number of visitors in the summer. The waves of the Atlantic can sometimes be strong, making the beach suitable for surfing, especially for beginners and intermediate surfers.
The village’s main beach runs alongside the town center, where cafés and local restaurants line the shore. The northern stretch, however, remains quieter and more pristine, ideal for those seeking open spaces for reflection and swimming away from the crowds.
Horseback riding on the beach is also available, an especially memorable experience at sunset. For those in search of greater tranquility and seclusion, several less-frequented beaches lie just a short drive or even a walk away from Moulay Bousselham. These hidden gems offer a more private and natural seaside experience.
Dining in Moulay Bousselham: Seafood with a Local Touch
Food is another highlight of the Moulay Bousselham experience. The small port supplies local restaurants and markets daily with freshly caught fish—sardines, mullet, snapper, and shrimp.
Although the seaside eateries are simple in appearance, their flavors often exceed expectations. Nothing compares to a plate of charcoal-grilled sardines served with fresh tomato salad and warm, traditional bread.
Those with a taste for traditional dishes can enjoy a “fish tagine with olives and preserved lemons” or a locally prepared fish soup.
No visit is complete without a glass of mint tea, or herbal tea made from wild plants, on a terrace overlooking the sea or the Merja Zerga Lagoon, where the scent of mint mingles with the ocean breeze.
Endless Activities: Between the Sea and the Lagoon
A trip to Moulay Bousselham is not just about relaxing on the beach—it is an opportunity to connect with the lagoon’s enchanting natural environment, understand the local ecosystem, and enjoy the peace and serenity the place offers.
The town provides a wide range of activities, from birdwatching—whether you are a professional ornithologist or a casual nature lover, the Merja Zerga Lagoon offers unmatched opportunities. Bring your binoculars and camera, and be ready to spend hours observing and photographing the astonishing variety of birds. Local guides can also be hired to help visitors discover migratory flocks and seasonal patterns.
You can also take boat tours on the Merja Zerga Lagoon, offering a close look at bird flocks and aquatic plants, or try fishing, which attracts both amateurs and professionals, particularly along the nearby rocky cliffs.
As for water sports, activities such as surfing and kayaking are gaining popularity among young visitors, while camping remains a favorite option thanks to the surrounding natural spaces. Some travelers choose to pitch their tents near the beach or within the neighboring forest for an immersive outdoor experience.
Accommodation: From Rental Homes to Small Hotels
Despite its quiet rural character, Moulay Bousselham offers a variety of lodging options to suit different budgets and preferences. Guesthouses and small hotels provide comfortable rooms with basic services, generally priced between 300 and 700 dirhams per night. These establishments are known for their warm, family-like atmosphere, making visitors feel as though they are among locals.
Furnished apartments and houses are a preferred choice for families, groups, or those planning longer stays. These can be rented directly from local residents or booked through online platforms, with prices varying depending on size, location, and season.
For camping enthusiasts and nature lovers, designated camping areas are available near the beach or along the lagoon. They offer affordable rates and a closer connection to the outdoors. Advance booking is recommended, especially during the summer or peak birdwatching seasons, when demand for accommodation is particularly high.
When You Leave…What Remains Is Not Just the Image but the Feeling
Before leaving Moulay Bousselham, take a short moment to sit by the beach or alongside the Merja Zerga Lagoon. You’ll notice birds flying nearby, waves breaking gently, and the moist breeze softening the day’s warmth.
It is then that you realize the village is not merely a stop for swimming or leisure, but a place that offers a serene experience away from the noise of the cities. What you take with you may not only be the photos you captured, but also a sense of calm that leaves you wanting to return to this simple corner of Morocco’s Atlantic coast.
